From Lenzen to Schnackenburg

Barry in the deserted main street of Lenzen, where nearly every second house or shop was empty and dilapidated

Our hotel room in Lenzen

Sign referring to the division of Europe and Germany in the past
A chill wind blew over the steppes.
Whoops, that’s the start of my Russian novel.
“You might need to wear something warmer,” I told Sophie.
She scorned the idea.
As usual she had dressed herself in her tiny thigh-hugging shorts and thin tee-shirt. Tossing her hair, she trotted down to breakfast.
Later, as we cycled into the bitter wind of late spring in Germany, her little face began to look pinched and pained. When we realized that we had in fact ridden 3 kilometres in the wrong direction, she was desperate for any extra garment. “Have you got any socks?” she asked me.
I had nothing to offer her, but Davey gave her his shorts. Not his lycra knicks, of course. He would never surrender those. Sophie pulled on his ordinary shorts and her own raincoat and we set off in the right direction, with the wind behind us.

Sophie dressed for survival
It made a surprising difference, having that icy wind behind us rather than in front. Suddenly it had become our friend, pushing us kindly along the Elbe dyke path towards our next refuge. The people passing us in the opposite direction, however, were obviously still suffering.

Barry cycles along the dyke path
“No point greeting them cheerily,” said Barry after a while. “For some reason they don’t seem to be as happy as we are.”
And indeed, their faces looked ruddy and their eyes bloodshot. Much as Sophie had looked half an hour before, although of course these people were more sensibly dressed.
By the time we were just north of Schnackenburg, all the same, I was beginning to wish that I had taken my own advice and worn more clothes. The mere thought of socks almost brought tears to my eyes. Especially when a farmer told Barry that we would have to ride back into the wind to find a bridge over the Elbe. Luckily there was a ferry with a ferryman who patiently waited for Barry to take a photograph or two before we left the northern bank.
We found our pension in Schnackenburg, our lugagge arrived just after we did and I rooted through my bag for socks and a thermal. I have rarely been happier. Sophie put on her beloved ugg boots and her jeans and looked much more contented with her lot. After goulash soup and other delicacies in the little cafe downstairs, we were all toasty warm and ready for our afternoon nap.

Sophie in closer fitting and warmer gear
Sophie had thawed out completely – enough to make a little speech.
“Mummy,” she said, “I am sorry that I didn’t listen to your sage advice this morning. From this moment on, I shall always listen to what you say.”
Oh sorry, that last bit is part of my Russian novel too.
Love from Rosi

Old sign in the Schnackenburg Museum, referring to the former border between West and East Germany. The Elbe River formed part of that border, as the old watch towers along the dyke path reminded us.

Patrick rides in the quiet streets of Schnackenburg, where our guesthouse was also a restaurant and a kiosk. The only other signs of commercial life were a hairdresser and the tiny but fascinating museum.

View from our room in Schnackenburg

Our room in the roof space – all angles and charm

Davey sends a text, requiring an inordinate length of time on his antiquated device. Photo and caption by Barry

Photo and caption by Barry