Hunting and Gathering – and Mühlberg

Linda: My friend, comrade and fellow shopper, not to mention the fashion guru of the Elbe Radweg

As Linda and I headed for the shops in Torgau this morning, I pondered on the whole shopping issue. Why do she and I love window shopping, even when we don’t buy anything? Why do we enjoy searching through shops, even those that seem unlikely to offer us anything we might genuinely need?

And why do Dwayne and David, while reacting to our shopping expeditions with impatience, spend such a long time in their turn searching for the perfect café or restaurant?

My theory is that we are all simply acting out the roles of our evolutionary past, when women had to gather and forage, while men were responsible for hunting. In Linda’s and my case, therefore, we have an inbuilt, pre-wired urge to search through shops, track down the best buys and dig up bargains. 

Linda mentioned to the shop assistants in our favourite shop in the town square of Torgau that she is a “dwarf” and finds it difficult to get anything small enough. They all laughed when I translated what she had said. Thereafter, our sales assistant also fell into a pre-programmed search mode and rummaged through the shop for something that would fit Linda’s tiny stature, ultimately finding her a pair of jeans into which I doubt even one of my legs would fit. We left the shop weighed down with useful articles, just as our evolutionary precursors carried baskets of essential foodstuffs back to camp. 

Meanwhile, the men had hunted down the best coffee in town, but they were both eager to set off for Mühlberg and frustrated by the delay. 

“Mühlberg is a very small town,” said Davey. “No shops.”

“I love it already,” replied Dwayne.

And it turned out to be exactly as Davey had described it, though far livelier and animated than Pretzsch.

Mühlberg Castle In the courtyard of the Mühlberg Castle
Breakfast at Monika’s pension Our room in Monika’s pension

The old castle was an imposing building but, like numerous old houses along our route, falling into disrepair. These buildings struck us as sad and forlorn. We couldn’t help thinking that they were once filled with people like us; perhaps they reminded us of our own mortality. 

Nevertheless, the grounds around the old castle were adorned by beautiful community gardens, which made the whole place seem far less melancholy.

Linda fondles the new, soft seat cover that we found in the small town of Mühlberg. Both she and I bought one; the increased comfort certainly justified the modest expense.

There was certainly a general dearth of shops in Mühlberg, but we found the best of all shopping treasures in a tiny hardware shop: two soft covers for our bike saddles to protect our sore bottoms.

Yet another gratifying achievement for us gatherers.

Final Notes

Hotel: Wendlands Pension und Speisen-Restaurant – homely and charming. We were greeted by Monika, the owner, with coffee and home-made cakes. The evening meal in the dining room, with beer directly from the barrel, was relaxing and authentic.

Injury Update: My wrist improved dramatically overnight and I was able to resume my cycling with the minimum of klutziness.

Team Update: I am still in the team but generally considered to be the least reliable member and the one requiring the most discipline.

Lycra – and Pretzsch

When I knocked on the Sleeps’ door this morning, it was opened by Dwayne, resplendent in his lycra cycling knicks. “Oh Gawd,” I muttered.

“It’s like packing ten pounds of sausages into a five-pound bag,” he said, prancing around the room. 

I averted my eyes. 

Linda had sent me a warning message, but I had had my phone on aeroplane mode. 

Linda’s warning arrived too late.

Despite this distressing start to the day, we were all happy at the prospect of our first proper cycling stage, for want of a better word.

Starting out in Wittenberg…  …with lycra  …and my superbike

It was distinctly damp as we set off, but our rain protection served us well and the landscapes, the villages and the beautiful gardens made up for the discomfort. That is, except for our bottoms, which felt decidedly tender as we bumped over the cobblestones. 

An inviting pension along the way A garden in Elster
Yet another garden Sheep – completely unfazed by our presence

Nevertheless, we arrived in Pretzsch intact, with only one oversight: we had accidentally left our accommodation and luggage transfer vouchers in Wittenberg. 

Solving this problem could be even more difficult than looking at Dwayne in lycra.

Final Notes:

Positive aspects of Germany continued: The Elbe Radweg – This bike path runs for hundreds of kilometres along the Elbe River.

Hotel in Pretzsch: Parkhotel – large and adequate without being charming. Trabis parked out the back. The kind, overworked woman at reception dealt with our voucher problem with patience and aplomb.

Pretzsch itself: Disturbingly like a ghost town, but our hotel was hopping with two functions.

Problem solved: The kind people at the Parkhotel organised a taxi to bring over all our documents and vouchers from Wittenberg. Thank goodness.

One more disturbing issue: Upon our arrival, Dwayne realised that he hadn’t packed any jocks in his pannier. Since our luggage hadn’t arrived at that stage, he had to don his shorts and let his 5 pounds of sausages (sorry, 10) swing in the breeze. Aagh.

The Mountain Stage

Bleckede to Tiessau
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Sign summarizing our ride20120529-170219.jpg

“That mountain stage really knocked us around,” said Barry.

We were eating breakfast at “La Maison de la Marionette” in Tiessau, a tiny village just 6 kilometres out of Hitzacker. Barry sounded like the manager of an elite group of cyclists who had just struggled to the peak of Alp d’Huez in some gruelling battle of will.

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It seemed steeper.

Unfortunately we didn’t feel elite at all. Especially two days before, when we had missed the riverbank path and had instead ridden through some gentle, undulating hills. They weren’t really mountains at all. But when you are not an elite athlete, even a hill feels like a mountain.
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Through the forest

Barry was nursing his back and consequently climbed off his bike to walk up some hills.

I was nursing my whole body, so I walked up even more hills.

Sophie didn’t even notice the hills. She developed a habit of ringing her bell as she swept past me. Davey said she looked as though she was dancing on her pedals.

Fortified by his years of wearing lycra all over the place in Surrey Hills, Davey stayed resolutely on his bike, regardless of the gradient.

Patrick was at the front for the whole time. Although the hills (or as I prefer to call them, mountains) caused him no pain, he noticed them enough to say:

“So, Mum, are there any more mountains along this flat river bank?”

I hope not, Patrick, I really do.

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Breakfast at Bleckede, with a little thermos for the…

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…boiled egg

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A bike as a garden ornament

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Breakfast at Maison de la Marionette in Tiessau – photo by Barry

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Out and about in Hitzacker
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Barry riding home from Hitzacker to Tiessau in the twilight